Climbing the South East Face of Mount Kenya – Nelion & Batian Peaks
Mount Kenya, the second-highest peak in Africa, is a climber’s paradise. While many opt for trekking to Point Lenana, the true adventure lies in tackling the technical routes leading to Nelion (5,188m) and Batian (5,199m). Among these, the South East Face of Mount Kenya stands as a legendary climb, offering an exhilarating mix of rock climbing, high-altitude exposure, and breathtaking scenery.
The Challenge of the South East Face
The South East Face route to Nelion is the most popular technical ascent on Mount Kenya. This multi-pitch rock climb requires solid alpine skills, as it involves sustained climbing on steep granite walls at high altitudes. The standard route consists of around 18 pitches, rated at UIAA IV+ to V (roughly 5.6 to 5.8 YDS), making it a serious undertaking for experienced climbers.
Once on Nelion, climbers who wish to reach Batian must cross the Gate of the Mists, a committing traverse that can be icy and requires careful handling of conditions. Batian, the true summit of Mount Kenya, offers an unforgettable reward for those who make the crossing.
Best Season to Climb
The ideal climbing window is during the dry season:
- January to March – Warmer conditions and more stable weather.
Access & Approach
The default access route the South East Face of Batian in Mount Kenya is via Naromoru, though climbers can also opt for the more scenic Chogoria Route or other access points depending on preference and logistics.
Required Skills & Preparation
Climbing the South East Face demands a blend of rock climbing ability, endurance, and altitude readiness. Key requirements include:
- Rock climbing skills (comfortable leading at 5.8 YDS/ UIAA V at altitude).
- Experience with multi-pitch climbing and alpine techniques.
- Good acclimatization strategy to handle the altitude.
- Proper gear, including helmets, harnesses, ropes (50m minimum), cams, and slings.
Batian Ready Program
To prepare for this demanding climb, our Batian Ready program provides structured outdoor training sessions designed to build endurance, technical skills, and altitude adaptation. This ensures climbers are physically and mentally prepared for the ascent.
Breakdown of Training Sessions
- Session 1: Introduction to rock climbing
- Gear overview & climbing terminology
- Easy climb at Lukenya (Baboon Cliff)
- Session 2: Refining skills
- More climbing practice at Baboon Cliff
- Introduction to lead belaying
- Session 3: Traditional climbing (as used on Batian)– Lukenya Main Wall
- Understanding trad climbing gear
- Placing and removing protective gear
- Session 4: Introduction to multi-pitch climbing
- Multi-pitch techniques
- Gear placement and removal
- Effective communication while climbing
- Session 5: Refining multi-pitch climbing & abseiling
- Strengthening communication and teamwork
- Multi-pitch climbing drills
- Abseiling practice
- Session 6: Final prep & advanced practice
- More abseiling practice
- Wrapping up training and final assessments
The Climbing Experience
- Day 1-3: Approach via Austrian Hut (4,790m) and set up base.
- Day 4-5: Early start for the climb up the South East Face to Nelion (10-14 hours round trip). Climbers descending from Nelion can abseil back or bivouac at Howell Hut and descent back to Naromoru gate
Acclimatization Options
For a good acclimatization day, climbers can opt to ascend Point John or Point Lenana as part of the 5-day climbing itinerary. Additionally, we recommend checking out our Outside 2025 calendar for prep hikes to build endurance and altitude readiness.
Why Climb the South East Face?
- One of the most rewarding technical ascents in Africa.
- Incredible granite climbing at high altitude.
- The thrill of standing on Batian – the true summit of Mount Kenya.
- An alpine adventure that tests skill, endurance, and mental toughness.
Ready to Take on the Challenge?
Climbing the South East Face of Mount Kenya is a must do adventure for serious climbers. If you’re up for the challenge, let’s make it happen! Reach out to us for guided expeditions, route advice, and everything you need to summit Batian via this iconic route.
